Friday, March 12, 2010

My Lai massacre







One of the obvious things one confronts in coming to Vietnam is the U.S war that ravaged through here from 1964 to 1975. You could ignore it if you wanted to, since there really isn't any sign of it in the countryside. But, being informed people "we just know", so it's hard to ignore. Yesterday we visited one the more powerful places dedicated to that war: the memorial site of the My Lai massacre.

At about 7;30 am on 16 March 1968, the U.S. forces attacked Son My (aka My Lai), a rural village along the central coast of Vietnam. The area was regarded as a Viet Cong (i.e., the enemy) stronghold. The orders were shoot to kill and destroy everything in their path. According to records, over 500 unarmed Vietnamese civilians were killed. Everything was burned.

When the story broke in the U.S., it became one of the turning points in the war. Public attitudes towards the event, and subsequently support for the war, disintegrated along with other press releases.

Being here and visiting the site was extremely powerful. The strength and resolve of the Vietnamese people is remarkable. It was amazing that as we were cycling along a beautiful backroad to the memorial, people along the way were jumping out of their seats to say "hello hello" despite the fact that they probably thought were were Americans (most assume we are Americans until we set them straight) and anyone living in the area likely had a relative killed in the massacre, or the war.

On happier news, we just put in another decent day of 131 kms and are comfortably sitting poolside with beers in the town of Hoi An -- a town known for restaurants, silk tailors, cooking courses and other cool things. We'll keep you posted on how our stay here goes....

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